Unlike coriander, where scientists have identified genetic differences that influence how some people experience the flavour, there isn't a single explanation for Jasmin. What we do know is that it's one of the most chemically complex floral fragrances used in perfumery. Hidden within its fragrance are naturally occurring aromatic compounds, including one called indole, which gives Jasmin much of its richness and depth. We don't all notice those compounds in quite the same way. Some people are immediately drawn to the soft floral notes, while others become much more aware of the greener, richer notes that sits beneath the flowers. Neither reaction is right or wrong. We're simply experiencing different parts of exactly the same flower.
Jasmin is very much a floral fragrance, but if you've ever stopped beside a flowering Jasmin on a warm summer evening, you are likely to be assulted by robust fragrance which is riche with a freshness and a green edge that almost borders on bitterness. It's that contrast that gives Jasmin its character and without it the flower would simply smell sweet, and I don't think it would be nearly as interesting.
If your only experience of Jasmin comes from fabric conditioner, air fresheners or toiletries, don't assume you already know what Jasmin smells like. The real flower is a very different conversation.
The more Jasmin soaps I've compared over the years, the more I've come to appreciate that little green edge. Take it away and the fragrance becomes pleasant enough, but it also loses some of its personality. I wonder if that's what separates a really good Jasmin fragrance from an average one: the best perfumers seem confident enough to leave that little green edge exactly where it belongs, trusting the flower to speak for itself.
Not all Jasmins are prized for their fragrance
The bright yellow Winter Jasmine that flowers through the colder months is grown for its cheerful display rather than its perfume. The Jasmins treasured by perfumers are different varieties, particularly Jasminum grandiflorum and Jasminum sambac, both celebrated for their richly scented flowers.
Why are Jasmin flowers picked before sunrise?
Jasmin flowers release their richest fragrance overnight, ready to attract moths that pollinate them after dark. By the time the warmth of the morning sun arrives, that fragrance has already begun to change. For generations, growers around Grasse harvested the flowers at first light so the perfume houses received them at their very best.
Why is Jasmin one of the most valuable flowers in perfumery?
Unlike lavender or rosemary, Jasmin isn't usually distilled into an essential oil. Instead, perfumers produce a Jasmin absolute, an extract that captures the richness of the flower. It takes thousands of blossoms to produce a surprisingly small amount, which is why genuine Jasmin has always been one of perfumery's most prized ingredients.
Jasmin still has its own festival
Every August, the streets of Grasse celebrate the Fête du Jasmin, a tradition dating back to 1946. Flower-covered floats, music and jasmine-scented water celebrate one of the flowers that helped make the town the perfume capital of the world.
If you've never really got on with Jasmin, don't write it off completely. Try smelling the flower rather than the fabric conditioner. You may come to exactly the same conclusion... or you may discover you've never really met Jasmin before. If it isn't for you, it isn't for you and at least you're deciding that from the real flower.